Cool Places to Shoot – The Venice Carnival

It’s been many years that I’ve thought of doing a blog post like this. I’ve been running photography workshops and tours in Venice and at the Carnival since 2004, and historically I was always fiercely protective about the knowledge I had. I used to think that if I told everybody what I know, they wouldn’t book a trip with me. Well in reality it’s just not like that. I’m not sharing the extent of my knowledge here only because it would make far too long and boring a read – but I am sharing some of the highlights that I think will help people, photographers in particular, have a productive and fun time at Carnival.  If you find this helpful, and you make it to Venice, keep an eye out for me and give me a wave – don’t wink because I’ll just get freaked out…a thumbs up, a wave, a knowing nod…..

Please feel free to comment and add any other suggestions.

Top 10 Tips

1. Avoid The Mosh-Pit during the day
2. Carnival is busy – make no mistakes.  But with the right planning you can get the right mix of crowds, action and silence.  Most of the serious photographers get themselves to San Marco Square for sunrise.  Even though it’s cold and still dark, many people in costume will be there.  Surprisingly, they’re not all there for private photo shoots – but it’s worth checking to see if they are.  Most photographers and most people who dress up know that San Marco is a free-for-all.  We don’t do our private shoots there because there are just too many people – its a democratic pit of creative panic – but well worth it.  Put yourself over by the water’s edge in front of the Palazzo Ducale as the sun rises to your left.  Sunrise at Carnival in 2011 will be around 6:45am
3. No need for Elephant Guns
   Still surprises me how many people I see lugging around huuuuge lenses at Carnival.  I think it’s a case of ‘I paid for this puppy now I’m damm well gonna use it’ syndrome – however don’t bother with anything over 200mm.  If you’ve got to go long, the 70-200 will be ideal – otherwise you could happily shoot all week with nothing longer than a 100mm – you’ll get more use out of the wider lenses then the longer lenses – the streets are generally very small, plus in the open areas like San Marco, there is usually a big crowd of people around each costume – all trying to get a shot.  You’ve got to be up there elbow to elbow or you’re not going to get your shot. I probably shoot a good 70-80% of Carnival on a 24-70mm
4. Bring a Flash
   Personal preference I suppose, however if you’re not religously opposed to flash photography then this is a great time to do it.  If you’re keen to experiment with your flash – bring it, if you know how to use it, consider shooting it off camera as much as possible – just ensure you’ve got a easy access bag or big pockets that you can keep putting it into when you’re not using it
   
5. Plan your Day
   It’s chaotic outside your hotel door so you need a plan.  For example, plan to shoot early morning light in San Marco, San Zaccaria during the day, some quiet areas of Venice in the afternoon etc.  All down to personal preference but it keeps your head clearer when all around you have lost theirs.  By 6pm the sun has gone – by 5pm it’s almost dark, so really you want to be planning on wrapping up your day by 4-5pm depending upon the light
6. Walk on the right
   Because of the volume of people during Carnival time, there is a system of walking on the right hand side – in fact some narrows streets become one way.  You’ll soon see if you’re swimming against the tide
7. Be Patient
   If you see a great costume you want to shoot, chances are you’re not the only one.  Also very likely that every tourist under the wintery sun will want to go and stand next to the costume and have their photo taken.  Breathe deeply and it will pass – centre yourself – they’ll get bored and you’ll eventually get your unadulterated subject in all their glory.  Seriously though – whether it’s pesky tourists or simply other photographers – seek out the costumes that you want to shoot (because some are much better to shoot than others), and follow them around – see how they perform and move around – think about their position, where you’d like them, the light – do all this thinking whilst you’re waiting to get a good position…and always out-stay your welcome.  Don’t run away after one or two shots – let them move around, or you move around so you have  a few different frames, from different angles.  Too late to re-do when you get home
8. Be a slave to light
   The weather can be a little unpredictable during the wintery months in Venice – but if you keep an eye on the light, and on the clouds, they will serve you well.  ’Good light’ doesn’t need to be low warm sun – it can have many different attributes – you could be shooting high contrast, back-lit, soft-light…also the clouds – are they moody, are they fluffy….Even though you’re on holiday and your partner is tired and wants to go back to the hotel to look at what they’ve bought, you just never know what may be happening with the weather.  One of the best shots I’ve seen taken during one of our Carnival workshops was done under just such circumstances – I decided to call it a day – somebody else didn’t, and they were awarded with an amazing sunset, a fantastic model all in a great location…..you know who you are…..grrrrrr..great shot…:-)
9. Think Paparazzi
   When you see people shooting the stars at red carpet events, it’s often the person with the most prominent voice that attracts the attention of the subject.  Not saying you need to shout – but communicate with the people in costume – ask them politely to move in a certain way or look towards you.  Remember that the vast majority of the people in the crowd are regular tourists and will rarely be calling out for the subjects attention – do it and you’ll be surprised how accomodating they can be
10. Make a creative plan
    It’s not often that creativity should be preceded by a plan – in a way this is contradictory – however when you have an event that presents very similar photo opportunities repeatedely, and it’s very busy, you can really benefit from thinking about the kind of shots that work, the ones that didn’t, and creative techniques to pull out of your sleeve.  The more experienced you are, the more these things will be just part of your process.  If you’re new to photography, give it a try.  Especially at the end of the first day when you look though your images – think about which images worked really well.  Do you know why?  Was it the angle of view?  Perhaps you’ll find that on nearly all of the shots you really like, you shot at unusual angles of view.  Perhaps you experimented with flash, or slow shutter speed, or rear-curtain sync during twilight, or shallow depth of field, or selective focus, or abstract…..

Best Places to Shoot

Morning

San Marco Square

In front of the Palazzo Ducale at sunrise is the best place to be.  You won’t be alone so don’t be alarmed when you find the crowds gathering before the sun comes up.  As you look out to the water, the sun comes up to your left.  The area under the arches on the corner of the Palazzo Ducale is great when the light hits it – as is the corridor dissappearing off towards the Basilica.  When the sun comes up (if there is any), don’t be tempted to call it a day and head back for breakfast – the light will constantly change..

 

Day

San Zaccharia

This little Church just five minutes walk from Piazza San Marco is always a great spot for costumes.  It’s off the usual tourist trail, but seems over the years to have become one of the photographers’ favourite spots.  During the day you can often find up to twenty or more people in costume in this little square.  The location itself is – pretty – nothing spectacular – but it’s a bit like shooting fish in a barrel when you hit it at the right time

Santa Maria Formosa

Actually the interesting spot is not in the square of Santa Maria Formosa (which is a Church), but in a small area behind the Church. It’s on a little street called ‘Calle Querini’ which connects from the San Marco area to the square of Santa Maria Formosa. Anyway, it’s a beautiful little square, and seems to be on the route of many of the costumes – if you’re luck you’ll find some superb shots here

Piazza San Marco

During Carnival there are many events such as the daily parade of the best mask/costume award.  There are always things happening in the square, but any time during the day and afternoon you’re guaranteed to find people in the craziest costumes

Afternoon

San Giorgio

San Giorgio is the tiny little island that you see from San Marco square looking out over the lagoon – the one with the boats in front of it, and the church tower.  Often in the late afternoon you’ll find costumes here – not many, but if you’re lucky you will.  You need to catch a boat over from San Marco.  Best time to go is sunset – more likely to find costumes there, plus as you look out back towards Venice, the sun will be setting over to the left – fill flash recommended for this spot

Evening

Piazza San Marco

I know, I know – but it’s where most things happen.  Carnival aside, San Marco is the best place for night time shooting – all the lights from the cafes around the square, the movement – don’t bother with a tripod as you wouldn’t even have the arm-room to think about opening it – shoot hand-held, pump up that ISO and let yourself go – free yourself up from that pin-sharp focus obsession and go all abstract on yourself!

Model Releases

If you’re serious about your photography – whether pro or amateur, you’ll probably want to know what the deal is about photographing the people in costume, when to ask their permission, do they get paid, why do they do it, model releases etc etc.  Here we’ll try and answer some of the more important questions in the form of a Q&A.

Q. Are the models professionals or are they just doing it for fun?
A.  Some are more serious about their costumes than others, but without exception, nobody will ask you for money for photographing them, unless you have specifically arranged a private shoot with them and have agreed as such.  NB.  Over the years I’ve noticed in a few places around Venice (particularly close to Rialto, some beggars dressed in costume – they stand in front of a hat obviously expecting money when you pose with them or take their photo.  I know they’re beggars because they’ve been begging in Venice for many years now.  In the summer you’d probably see the same people pretending to be hunched over or unable to walk and asking for money.  Carnival is a celebration and event for the joy of it – nobody who is there for the event will ask you for money and everybody is there for the fun of dressing up

Q. Do I need a model release to photograph the people in costume?
A. I’d welcome any peoples’ comments here who have different opinions on this as I’m no lawyer, however the hard and fast rule is that if you’re planning to use your image to sell a product or service, or to an agency that may do the same, then you should get a model release.  If it’s for your own website, editorial / photojournalistic work you don’t really need to.  Bottom line is if you walk out in to the street wearing a bright pink costume with feathers – chances are you know it’s highly likely you’ll be photographed – and equally as likely that you’ve come to terms with that before you set foot outside!  Most people in costumes carry with them business cards and are always willing to exchange them so that they can get images of themselves – this is a good option if you think you may need them to sign a release at a later date.  Most business cards also have a photo on them so you know who it is – nonetheless it’s worth photographing them in front of their business card

Balls

Of the masked variety of course.  Many people who visit Carnival are interested to attend one of the masked formal balls within the city.  Although there will be a number of private functions, there are also quite a few balls put on for paying guests.  Usually the evening comprises of dinner and dancing and it’s often quite a pricey affair.  Think in the 200 Euro range…mask not included

Kit worth Bringing

During the day you’ll want to be light and nimble.  In a nutshell my advice would be the following:

• Warm clothes – work in layers – as lightweight but warm as possible.  Gloves than you can still shoot with, warm socks, a waterproof jacket, small travel umbrella, warm hat
• Camera body – bring two if you have them, but only one at a time out in the street.  You may visit the Carnival once in your life so best not tempt fate and leave your backup body at home
• Lenses – Most photographers know they shouldn’t travel with all their lenses, but usually do anyway.  An ideal line-up for carnival would be something like this – 16-35, 24-70, 70-200.  Don’t forgot your lens hoods as they’ll protect your lens as you move around the crowded streets
• Flash – bring one if you can – a lot can be done with them.  If you’ve already discovered the holy land of off-camera flash, then you won’t need to be told to bring the necessary components for shooting off-camera
• Camera bag – putting aside your travel bag that you cram all your kit into, the bag you use for day-to-day shooting needs to be small and a shoulder or sling type IMO.  Backpacks are too tempting for theives plus a pain to get things in and out of quickly

When to Visit

The dates of Carnival change each year as it’s linked with Epiphany and Ash Wednesday.  The Venice Carnival goes on for around nine days.  In 2011 the Venice Carnival dates are February 26th to March 8th.  The first few days of the Carnival tend to be more about historic costumes, with the majority of the action happening towards the final week – particularly the 3-4 days leading up to ‘Martedi Grasso’ (Mardi Gras), on 8th March in 2011.  If you had to plan say three days to see the Carnival – see the last three.

You can find details on the Carnival’s program nearer to the time of the event, on the official website.

Weather

Mixed bag as far as the weather goes.  You can be sure it will be cold – in the region of anything from zero to 7 Celsius (32-44 Farenheit).  Sometimes it can snow, sometimes rain – but on the whole, it can often be crisp and clear.  Plan for cold weather with rain showers and you won’t find yourself in problems

And Finally

To finish off I’ll leave you with a selection of some of the images I’ve taken at Carnival over the years.  I hope this has been useful and remember if you’re looking for a little more at Carnival time, then the only way to do it is the VSP way…:-)